The clean beauty movement has spent years removing ingredients from our skincare routines. Parabens, sulfates, synthetic fragrances, all gradually eliminated in favor of “natural” alternatives. But recently, a different trend has emerged: adding back ingredients our ancestors used for centuries.
Tallow, colostrum, and other animal-derived fats are appearing in premium skincare formulations, marketed as returns to traditional wisdom. Unlike trendy plant extracts that cycle through Instagram feeds, these ingredients have archaeological evidence of use dating back thousands of years. The question is whether modern science supports what ancient cultures practiced instinctively.
The Science Behind Skin-Compatible Fats
Human skin produces sebum, a complex mixture of fatty acids, wax esters, and squalene that forms our natural protective barrier. The composition varies by individual, but sebum typically contains palmitic acid (23-30%), oleic acid (15-20%), and smaller amounts of stearic and myristic acids.
Tallow—rendered beef fat—contains nearly identical ratios: approximately 25% palmitic acid, 18% oleic acid, and similar proportions of the other fatty acids found in human sebum. This molecular similarity means skin recognizes and absorbs tallow more readily than many plant-based oils, which often contain fatty acid profiles quite different from our own.
A 2019 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that fatty acids matching those in sebum demonstrated superior barrier repair compared to unmatched profiles. While the study didn’t specifically test tallow, the implications are clear: molecular compatibility matters.
Why Traditional Sunscreen Bases Are Problematic
Most conventional sunscreens use silicone-based or petrochemical carriers for their active ingredients. These bases create the smooth, invisible finish consumers expect, but they can disrupt skin barrier function over time—especially problematic since dermatologists recommend daily sunscreen use.
Chemical sunscreen filters like oxybenzone and octinoxate have faced additional scrutiny. The FDA’s 2019 proposed rule found insufficient safety data for common chemical filters, requesting additional testing for systemic absorption. While “insufficient data” doesn’t mean “unsafe,” it has driven consumer interest in alternatives.
This is where ingredient sourcing becomes critical. Some brands are formulating sunscreens with tallow as the base, combining mineral sun protection with skin-compatible fats. Companies like Sky and Sol have built their entire product line around this approach, using what they call “edible-grade” ingredients—a term meaning every component could theoretically be consumed safely.
Whether edible-grade ingredients matter for topical products is debatable, but the philosophy reflects a broader trend: consumers want ingredient transparency extending beyond “what’s in it” to “where did it come from.”
The Colostrum Question
If tallow represents ancestral skincare, colostrum might be its more exotic cousin. Bovine colostrum—the first milk produced after calving—contains growth factors, immunoglobulins, and lactoferrin. Historically used for wound healing, it’s now appearing in anti-aging formulations.
The theoretical basis is solid. Growth factors like IGF-1 and TGF-β in colostrum can stimulate fibroblast activity, potentially increasing collagen production. Lactoferrin has documented anti-inflammatory properties. Small studies have shown topical colostrum reducing signs of photoaging, though larger clinical trials are needed.
The challenge is quality and sourcing. Colostrum composition varies significantly based on timing of collection, processing methods, and whether it’s from first or subsequent milkings. Not all colostrum skincare products contain meaningful concentrations of active components.
Distinguishing Marketing From Science
The ancestral skincare narrative is compelling, but requires critical evaluation. Yes, humans have used animal fats topically for millennia. But historical use doesn’t automatically validate efficacy—plenty of traditional practices lack scientific merit.
What makes certain ancestral ingredients credible is the convergence of historical use and modern research. Tallow’s fatty acid profile matching human sebum isn’t marketing spin; it’s biochemistry. Colostrum’s growth factors are measurable components with documented cellular effects.
The risk is overclaiming. A tallow moisturizer won’t erase wrinkles. Colostrum cream won’t replace retinol. What these ingredients can offer is compatibility—formulations that work with skin’s natural processes rather than against them.
The Ingredient Transparency Movement
Perhaps the most significant shift isn’t any specific ingredient, but the demand for transparency about sourcing, testing, and formulation philosophy.
When third-party testing found heavy metals in some sunscreens in 2021, it sparked industry-wide conversations about contamination versus intentional ingredients, acceptable parts-per-billion thresholds, and testing protocols. Brands responding with clear testing data and sourcing information built consumer trust; those that remained silent or defensive did not.
This transparency extends beyond safety to ethics. Where does tallow come from—grass-fed cattle or industrial operations? Is colostrum collected in ways that prioritize calf nutrition? These questions matter to consumers making purchasing decisions aligned with values.
What This Means for Your Skincare Routine
If you’re considering ancestral skincare ingredients, a few principles apply:
Start with one product. Don’t overhaul your entire routine simultaneously. Add a tallow-based moisturizer or tallow sunscreen and observe how your skin responds over several weeks.
Check fatty acid profiles. Not all tallow is equal. Grass-fed sources typically have better omega-3 to omega-6 ratios. Quality matters more than quantity.
Look for transparency. Brands should clearly state ingredient sourcing, provide testing data if making purity claims, and explain their formulation philosophy beyond marketing buzzwords.
Adjust expectations. Ancestral ingredients aren’t miracle workers. They offer compatibility and gentleness, which matters for sensitive or reactive skin, but won’t deliver dramatic transformation overnight.
Consider your values. Animal-derived ingredients aren’t for everyone. Ethical sourcing matters, but so do personal values. There’s no universal “right” choice.
The Future of Ancestral Skincare
The return to traditional ingredients reflects broader cultural shifts: skepticism toward synthetic chemicals, desire for transparency, and interest in sustainability. Whether these ingredients become mainstream or remain niche depends on several factors.
First, research. More clinical studies on tallow, colostrum, and similar ingredients would help distinguish genuine benefits from placebo effects. Second, standardization. Without quality standards, “tallow skincare” could mean anything from premium grass-fed formulations to low-quality industrial byproducts.
Finally, education. Consumers need to understand what these ingredients can and cannot do, moving beyond both uncritical enthusiasm and reflexive dismissal toward informed decision-making.
Traditional ingredients are neither automatically superior nor inherently problematic. They’re tools—effective for some applications, less so for others. The question isn’t whether to embrace ancestral skincare wholesale, but which ancestral practices have legitimate application in modern formulations.
For skin seeking compatible, gentle ingredients backed by both traditional use and molecular evidence, products formulated with skin-compatible fats represent a scientifically sound option. Not because they’re old, but because the chemistry makes sense.